Our Newport 30 came with an Atlantic marine water heater and combined with the pressurized water we have it makes for a very nice shower aboard. However, this winter while checking on Whisper we found our hot water was barely tepid and I’m sure that I heard Neptune chuckle just a bit. We stood there thinking, “Oh great, now we need to buy a new water heater for the boat!”
Off we went to the local marine store to look at new water heaters and given the state of our shallow draft pockets it wasn’t too long before we realized we couldn’t afford to spend $600 to $900 for a new water heater. So back to the boat we went and I’m thinking I can heat water on the stove to wash dishes plus it seems to me that a solar shower might be vastly more affordable. In my head, I could hear our teenaged daughter whining about the abuse she’d suffer if we went for the solar shower.
Meanwhile, back at the boat…we checked around the water heater tank for leaks fearing perhaps the tank had rusted through but lady luck smiled at Neptune’s mischief and we thankfully found no leaks, which would have meant we definitely needed a new unit. We then pulled the cover panel off the water heater and using a multi-meter tested the two wires going to the element. Our thought was, if there was power going to the element then the thermostat was probably still working and if there was no power going to the element then the thermostat probably needed to be replace. We had power going to the element, which we figured meant we needed a new element.
Thus the search began for a new water heater element and before long we found the manufacturer of the Atlantic marine water heater went out of business about a year ago; given the age of our water heater I’d say they really didn’t plan ahead. You know, they’re supposed to plan it so things break down quickly and then they supply the parts to fix it with…right? We did find out that the elements come in two styles, a screw in and a bolt in type. It was easy to see our water heater came with the bolt in type of element. If you have a screw in element then you’ll need to pick up an element wrench (about $6.00 US) at your local hardware store, provided you want to try our fix.
We shut off the water supply to the heater and drained the tank, turned off the power to the water heater and then we removed the wires from the end of the element, unbolted it from the tank and removed it. Yep, the element was corroded and burned out. We spent several days trying to find an exact replacement for it, ours had a brass plate but after much searching on the Internet and numerous phone calls we came to understand that no one makes them any more. It seems there should be someone out there making elements with a brass plate but we sure couldn’t find any.
We talked with a local plumbing shop and they felt the brass was something that would hold up better in a marine environment but they too couldn’t locate one for us. We bought the replacement sans brass thinking if it doesn’t last as long, it’s okay. It cost us $12.00 US for the new element and we also bought a new gasket. We did compare the new to the old to be sure the bolts matched up exactly plus we got the same wattage so we didn’t need to worry about the wiring.
So back in the lazerette we went (or more correctly my hubby went). He checked to be sure all the old gasket was removed from the tank and installed the new gasket and element. He was careful to get it bolted in tightly and we then refilled the tank with water while running the faucet to allow the air in the tank to escape. Once all the spitting from the faucet stopped and the water ran out nicely we check for leaks. Then he replaced the wires and reattached the panel. I turned on the power and we sat down to wait with a glass of wine. In about 30 minutes we had hot water! Yippee!
We were careful to write down the parts number for both the element and the thermostat in our maintenance log. Should we sell Whisper the new owner will appreciate seeing the repair and the date plus if they need to fix something, they’ll have the numbers, which will make it much easier and less time consuming for them.
Our Atlantic marine hot water heater has a stainless steel tank and covering. We did find some of the newer heaters come with aluminum tanks, which we feel, could rust out much more easily. In trying to keep to the old adage, ‘use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without’ we were thankful to be able to fix yet another system on our boat for basically elbow grease and a few bucks.
Thanks for visiting, good luck with your marine hot water heater, please remember Murphy’s Law. Plus if you’ve any experience you can add please leave a comment. If you found this helpful, please remember I have a real estate license and if you’re going to buy or sell I’d love to refer a local agent for an interview. It costs you nothing and if you use them, they pay me a percentage which helps me keep this blog on the web. Again, best of luck fixing your marine hot water heater.
88 Comments posted on "Atlantic Marine Water Heater"
manuel on January 11th, 2008 at 5:59 am #
I would like to know were you find the new brass because i have the model 12 of t series and no find this spare.
Debbie on January 11th, 2008 at 9:54 am #
My hubby did talk with a representitive of the manufacturer of elements here in the US and they told him they could make one with a brass plate but it would be a special order; meaning lots of money. So, we went with the steel one for $12 US and figured if it doesn’t last as long it’s ok. It only took about 15 minutes to replace. So far for us, it’s working great! Best of luck with yours.
manuel murube Fernandez. on January 14th, 2008 at 5:05 am #
thanks debbie. is possible that there made two wit steel plate and send me.
Of course I will pay the cost if you want before to receive the products but please give me the total amount end.
Debbie on January 17th, 2008 at 9:20 am #
Phil Kennedy on February 8th, 2008 at 5:22 pm #
I also have a Atlantic Marine T series 10 gallon, and my element has gone out. Do I understand that there is no factory support for these units? I have not found a website for them, only a link to OceanLink in RI. Any info you can forward me from your search would be appreciated. My unit is buried in an Oystere 435, took close to an hour just to see the data plate by mirror.
Debbie on February 9th, 2008 at 9:50 am #
We found the company that apparently made the elements for Atlantic although we understood the brass base was no long made.
If you’d like to visit their site you can use this link:
You may need to copy and paste to your
Hope that helps.
Ross on February 10th, 2008 at 9:03 pm #
If you need parts, you might check with Holland Marine in Toronto. They purchased as much of the remaining stock as they could, and claim to have all parts available.
Debbie on February 10th, 2008 at 10:30 pm #
Thank you Ross! I appreciate your information very much. I know others will too.
Don on February 25th, 2008 at 7:41 am #
I found the steel heating element at
Debbie on February 25th, 2008 at 1:13 pm #
Glad to hear it Don! Isn’t it a wonderful feeling to fix it for a few bucks and elbow grease? I completely appreciate having hot water aboard.
Michael Figueroa on May 10th, 2008 at 5:53 pm #
Atlantic water heater model#f6e sn#f03l20mm007 120 v 1250 watts I think I need a thermostat unit affixed to water haeter case with power to it before the coil .
Debbie on May 11th, 2008 at 8:21 am #
Hope this helps…I talked with my hubby about your comment. He said to turn off the power and use a mulit meter on the ‘CONT’ and OHM’s setting. You’re checking for continunity through the thermostat. Touch each side (where the wires are attached with screws) of the thermostat and if you have continunity he thinks the thermostat should be ok.
Then touch each side of the element to check for continunity. Most likely where ever you don’t have continunity is the part you need to replace.
Most of those we’ve talked with have needed a new element although it’s possible to need to replace both parts. Good luck running down the problem. If this doesn’t make sense to you, talk with a local electrician.
Richard Bradshaw on May 22nd, 2008 at 12:26 pm #
We have a T10E (12v/1500w) and it just stopped heating. We went to Holland Marine in Toronto to see if they have parts. Looks like they do at about $60 usd for a heating element. I’m sure shipping is added to that plus any customs issues.
When I checked the unit, it appears (from memory since it is burried under the quarterberth/garage) that power is connected to the element and then “jumpered” to the thermostat. From what I have seen in Calder and heard via email, this is backwards. We get 120v power at the heating element but only about 5 or 6v at the thermostat and that drops to zero. So, I’m thinking the previous/original owner wired it in backwards. Not being an electrician and without company diagrams (except for a poor effort on page 1 of a 4 page doc that we inherited) I have to go by what I read and am told.
Also, I had occassion to look at this unit once before when water stopped heating and I’d swear there was a “reset” button _hidden_ somewhere on the unit. We had hot water after I remember finding it so we didn’t have to replace anything at that time. Now, I can’t find it at all. Info from Holland Marine says there is _not_ a reset button. Maybe my memory is failing; or maybe not. I see from the photos on this page that that particular unit appears to have a reset button.
Anyone out there have this particular unit? Is there a reset button or not? If so, where?
Also, if we get the “real” unit with the bronze base, is there any liklihood that it will in fact last longer? We have no idea how old the unit is but it is one of the SS inside and out units.
We are in Mexico so getting things shipped here is a problem. Generic parts would seem to be a good option and $10 - 12 usd appears to be quite a bit better than about 60 usd.
Any help would be appreciated.
Debbie on May 22nd, 2008 at 1:03 pm #
I talked with my hubby, if you’ve power to the element and no hot water then we think you need to replace the element. The steel base probably won’t last as long as a brass base, particularly in salt water.
Depending on how you’re testing the thermostat your readings are probably correct.
As far as we know there is no reset button. Although you could use a small mirror to look around your unit to see if you can find one located in a ‘hidden’ area.
When we replaced our element we bought one from a local home plumbing shop…not a marine store.
The only ‘last longer fact’ I have to run on is my Dad. He’s a plumber by trade and was on the big blue for the military when younger. He agreed with my hubby that the brass would last longer but said ‘an element is an element’. (For what that’s worth.)
We figured since we couldn’t find a brass one and it was an easy to replace part, we’d just use more of them if needed, so far so good. I’ll email you the email for the local place maybe they can send to you.
Thanks for visiting, hope this helps. Anyone else with thoughts?
Matt on June 23rd, 2008 at 5:57 pm #
This page was very helpful. Company out of business and I have no manuals for the heater. Thanks and good work.
My heater element shorted out, and was sending current through the galvannic isolator. We were lucky to have an older isolator with a buzzer to alert of the new current path. I am now a green wire apostle. I appreciated reading about someone’s element change before I did mine.
Debbie on June 23rd, 2008 at 6:37 pm #
You’re welcome and thanks for visiting. I hope you’re able to fix your hot water heater.
Mike Kamin on July 16th, 2008 at 3:01 pm #
Thanks for the info, I need one also!
Debbie on July 16th, 2008 at 3:19 pm #
Thanks for visiting! Best of luck changing out your element. It wasn’t all that hard and pretty cheap at the local home plumbing store. So far ours is still working fine.
David on July 18th, 2008 at 11:58 am #
Debbie on July 18th, 2008 at 5:04 pm #
Well wouldn’t you know the parts number is on the sailboat and I’m not. I’ll email you the information I can right now and follow up after I get back on the boat.
Best of luck so far most people have managed to fix theirs. Yippee for all us DIY’ers! Thanks for visiting with me.
sonnie michalka 3rd on May 18th, 2009 at 12:30 pm #
thanks for imfo i have a 10e with bad element.
Debbie on May 18th, 2009 at 1:52 pm #
Best of luck changing out your element. Knock wood and ignoring Murphy…ours is still working!
Jerry on S/V Caneel on May 27th, 2009 at 3:05 am #
Debbie - thanks for writing this up. We have a T12E (SS tank) water heater with a burned out element. I had already found the Holland Marine site, but when I called, the brass-base 1500 W elements are no longer available (but they had 1250 W ones).
FWIW, I also have the owner’s manual for the heater, and it says IN BOLD LETTERS, do not use a steel-base element if your heater has a SS tank heater (not all AMP heaters do). It doesn’t say why, but I imagine it’s because regular steel is more active galvanically than SS, so the regular steel base will corrode preferentially. (Brass is less active than SS.) Nonetheless, I ordered a couple of the McMaster-Carr elements - thanks for posting the PN Don.
Debbie - I notice you used a Chromalox replacement, and in the photo, it’s shown to be a SS-base element. I searched the Chromalox website high and low, but couldn’t find that one. Would you post the part number, please?
A couple of other pieces of info: the manual shows the t’stat wired in-line in the hot lead, before the element, which is as it should be. It’s just a switch that’s normally closed, but opens when the temp gets up to the setpoint. Also, there’s no reset button mentioned in the manual, Richard, but a Seaward water heater we had on a previous boat _did_ have temp sensors that open a switch if the element gets too hot, and those sensors have reset buttons.
Doug on June 3rd, 2009 at 12:18 pm #
Doug on June 3rd, 2009 at 12:20 pm #
Sorry, I meant this for Jerry:
Dave on October 12th, 2009 at 1:32 pm #
I also have T12e model with a heating element that has rusted thru the steel base and is leaking. I will try the Chromalox and Mc Master Carr no’s. The red light is tied directly across the heating element which will light when it is on.
Debbie on October 12th, 2009 at 8:38 pm #
Good luck with your element! We were so pleased when our attempt worked. Knock wood…it’s still holding!
robbie hoyt on January 18th, 2010 at 6:33 pm #
Thank you everyone for all the info I am now starting my search for this heating element. im in the Virgin Islands, mid January and i hate cold showers.
Debbie on January 19th, 2010 at 1:48 pm #
Thanks for your visit, how I wish I were in the Virgin Islands! Good luck in your search for the part. So far ours is still working well.
Bob on January 21st, 2010 at 8:42 am #
Hi all I am in the Northeast US and we are in a deep freeze. I am looking at this water heater as a replacement on anew to me boat with a missing heater. All the talk so far is about it’s electrical heating. How does it do when using the engine as the heating element? Does anyone have an idea how long it takes get up to temperature when using a Yanmar 3GM as the source?
Debbie on January 21st, 2010 at 1:10 pm #
Our Newport 30 also heats water via our Universal engine when not docked on shore power. It works great provided we have the valve open to run the water through(yes, the first time we tried it was closed so no hot water). It actually heats to a hotter temp than our heater in the above story.
Once the engine is heated up to normal running temps I have hot water although it seems hotter if we’re motoring somewhere, probably as we’re running the engine longer so the cold water coming in to the heater continues to warm up.
When we dock with shore power we use the above electric heater. Hot water is really great and makes a big difference between camping and really living when on the boat! Hope this helps.
Congrats on your new to you boat and I hope you get thawed out real soon.
Bruce Lawson on January 24th, 2010 at 6:07 pm #
Hihot U’all, I also have a Atlantic Marine Stainless Corp. 6 gallon hot water tank. It’s probaby the original that came on my 1987 Bayliner. On reading all of the blogs, it seem s no has the problem I do. There seems to be stress cracks on the bottom of the tank that are leaking. I’m going to try to use epoxy to seal them. Any one have any comments? Thanks!
Debbie on January 25th, 2010 at 2:21 pm #
No help from me on the cracks, sorry. Please pop back in and let us know how the epoxy works. Thanks!
Ana on February 17th, 2010 at 2:29 pm #
Than you for your prompt response.
Debbie on February 18th, 2010 at 10:52 am #
The best I can suggest is to remove your element and take it with you. Don left a comment above…
I don’t know if it’s the same as yours plus when we tried to get one there they didn’t have what we were looking for.
We ended up going to a local home store that specializes in plumbing stuff and they matched it up for us.
Best of luck!
glen middleton on February 19th, 2010 at 7:17 pm #
G’day from Oz. We are a Can. cruising boat with a leaking (at front end) 1988 installed Atlantic T12E 12 gallon tank. Any chance such a leak is repairable? Appreciate any feedback.
Debbie on February 20th, 2010 at 10:58 am #
Wow, I don’t have a clue. Bruce above is trying epoxy but I haven’t heard if it worked. Anyone have a suggestion?
Debbie on February 20th, 2010 at 11:06 am #
In reviewing the comments above it seems some of you feel we used a Chromalox part. We talked with them and couldn’t get the part we needed. We went to a local home plumbing store to buy a water heater element. This is the same type you’d buy to fix your house water heater.
We figured the water heater quit working and it would be cheaper to try this to extend what we have rather than buying a brand new one for hundred of dollars US.
If it doesn’t last long then so be it, although last trip to the boat it was still working. The thing was broken to start with before we tried fixing it so we’re just doing the ‘use it up, wear it out, make it do or do with out’ thing.
Debbie on February 20th, 2010 at 5:54 pm #
After letting your question roll about in my noggin for a bit I’m wondering where the leak is? If it’s where the element is maybe you just need a new gasket? Just a thought.
Rick on March 2nd, 2010 at 3:01 pm #
Aren’t boats wonderful.
In reinstalling my heater after replacing the heating element, I broke the thermostat while tightening the wire, ughh. I haven’t been succesful in locating a replacement yet and was wondering if you had a updated part number or source for getting a suitable thermostat.
I have an email request into Holland to see what they have available. I also spoke with Therm-o-disc to see where to source one, but they only deal with OEM’s and figured the thermostat is obsolete, however I gave them my thermostat info and the rep said he would see what he could find out.
Debbie on March 3rd, 2010 at 8:43 am #
That’s too bad your thermostat broke after the work of replacing the element. We didn’t have any problems (not yet at least!) with the thermostat so we didn’t look for one. I’d sure be interested in what the rep says about finding one.
After chatting with my hubby he thinks you might be able to find a 110 thermostat at Ace. Look for the smallest one you can find that heats to like 160-180. He thinks you just need to match up the bolts…or at least one bolt.
Of course, you have to remember Murphy’s Law (see below if you don’t know Murphy). And remember we’re guessing here as we didn’t have to replace our thermostat.
However, in keeping with the thought that broken is broken and you can’t break broken…we’d try finding a close match to see if we could make it work. Incase the rep can’t find one.
Again, let me know how it all works out! Best of luck.
Rick on March 3rd, 2010 at 6:00 pm #
Yea, it blows. I haven’t heard back from the rep and doubt if will. I’ve been hitting the plumbing/electrical suppliers trying to find a generic surface mount that will, like you said, match up and bolt on. No luck so far, but I will report if I do.
Ken on April 5th, 2010 at 4:57 am #
I also have lost the hot water in my boat with an Atlantic Marine SS heater. I wrote the model number down and thought it would be easy to find replacement oparts. The boat is in the Bahamas for the sumemr and I am back in the states looking for an element and cannot measure the bolt patterns. I am going to try the McMaster Carr element. Does anyone know what the replacement T-stat for 240 volt would be and where one could be located?
Debbie on April 5th, 2010 at 9:28 am #
In case you didn’t see…Don left a comment above…
I don’t know if it’s the same as yours plus when we tried to get one there they didn’t have what we were looking for.
We ended up going to a local home store that specializes in plumbing stuff and they matched it up for us.
While ours isn’t a marine part it’s been holding and knock wood is on it’s third year. Just as a thought….if it were me… I’d go to my local plumbing store and explain what you’re looking for and see how many different bolt patterns there are. If there are only 2 or 3, I think I’d buy one of each and then return the one/s that didn’t fit. Just given your boat is so far away.
Like I said in my post, we couldn’t find an ‘equal’ replacement part and figured since the water heater was broken we might as well try a home plumbing store.
Best of luck getting your water heater fixed!
Carl on May 3rd, 2010 at 7:28 pm #
Peter at Holland warned me that the steel flange should not be used. He got touchy when I compared his $70 price to McMaster Carr’s $10.50. Said the steel plate would recat with the weld in the tank. I said I thought the welds should be passivated—but who knows? So I bought two and in a year or two will inspect for corrosion. I hardly use the 120v heater. Also I figger the gasket should separate the dissimilar metals, and only the bolts will join them. So based on Don’s advice and this lively discussion I hope soon I am off to fix something else. A boat needs a lot of fixin’. What I cannot figger is how people can own boats if they can’t do the maintenance. What fun they miss.
Thanks to you all
Annapolis,MD and Hawi, HI.
Debbie on May 4th, 2010 at 7:09 am #
How right you are about folk that don’t do their own maintenance! Nut’ns better than greasy nails, except maybe fiberglass rash!
Like we figured…our water heater was already broken so whatever we did wouldn’t matter. Broken is broken.
So far it’s still holding and our fix sure cost less than a new one!
Cheryl on July 23rd, 2010 at 1:36 pm #
I called Holland today for a T6 element and they are out of stock. Since they can’t get more, they are looking into having them custom made!?!? I’m going to try my local plumbing store and hope for the best.
The info from your readers has been really helpful.
Debbie on July 26th, 2010 at 7:47 am #
I’m so happy to hear this has been helpful! Ours is still working, hope it keeps up for a long time.
Ben on August 26th, 2010 at 7:32 am #
Thanks for this site. I used Don’s part number 35555k21 and bought it from the mcmaster.com web-site. The part came in 2 days, it cost about $15.00 dollars total including shipping. It took about 10 minutes to install and it works great.
If anybody knows the part number of the thermostat in case it ever goes bad that would be great.
Debbie on August 26th, 2010 at 7:22 pm #
Isn’t it wonderful, especially in todays ecomony, to make something work for pennies???
Thanks so much for visiting!
Bill on October 16th, 2010 at 5:55 pm #
Sabre 42 with a T10L Miami made with fiberglass insulation. The element rusted through with no affect on the rest of the welds on the tank in 12 years dockside condo boat use. Brass plate elements are not really needed but they won’t rust out will they? Another T10L Richmond built with brass element plate (still in good shape by the way) started leaking on the hot water out pipe and the weld along the bottom of the tank. I replaced it with the last T10 from Holland Marine (for US$130 less than you’d pay for a new Isotherm 11 gallon) and will re-weld the old tank to install in another boat. I do think that Peter at Holland is over priced but then he has the rare parts & should be supported. If you think that Peter @ Holland Marine has high prices, you should see the Rig-Rite stuff. The ‘Pirate of Warwick’, Kim Houghton, has quite a collection of old style never used sailboat hardware bought when companies went out of business. Providing you can get a Brinks truck to deliver the money for your new replacement hardware, it is so much easier to remove-it/replace-it using the same holes and no engineering required. I will be buying two adjustable thermostats from Peter @ Holland soon. Will he still have them when you need one or will I be buying the last two? If you don’t support the marine industry, it will disappear and then where will you be with your broken boats? Custom parts are very expensive!!
Debbie on October 18th, 2010 at 8:31 am #
Thanks for the post! Given the current economy it’s hard to support more than the local grocery store but you’re right, we need to support our marine businesses.
Bruce Lawson on November 23rd, 2010 at 8:17 pm #
I did epoxy the stress cracks in my 6 gallon Atl Marine SS hot water tank last Feb. as you can see above-but now it leaking again abeit a slow drip. Being a stubborn Swede, I’m going to try it again. Any one else had this problem? I’ll let you know.
Debbie on November 24th, 2010 at 1:32 pm #
Thanks for popping back in and letting us know how the epoxy is working. Real interested in knowing if a second application will fix it.
Bill on February 13th, 2011 at 4:03 pm #
I have a T12E and replaced the heating element years ago with one from Home Depot. I’ve had to replace it a 2 times but at
Bill on February 13th, 2011 at 4:10 pm #
I’ve had to replace it a 2 times but at
Debbie on February 15th, 2011 at 11:24 am #
Thanks for adding Home Depot as a source for the element. It sure beats buying a new water heater!
Joe on February 16th, 2011 at 11:04 am #
I have a T02F06- MMoo3 6 gal Stainless hot water tank. It’s my second because I didn’t know better. I was told the hot water fitting on the very bottom of the tank was split at the nipple. I replaced with new Atlantic.
Debbie on February 17th, 2011 at 3:40 pm #
Thanks so much for adding to this post! Yeah, the $600 price tag really hurts. We weren’t sure what we were going to do would work but broken is broken.
As a side note: Our heater is still working although we are only sailing fresh water. Good luck with your new element.
John on March 28th, 2011 at 4:54 pm #
We’ve lived with a 6 gallon Atlantic water heater for about 15 years now. Just went through some leak repairs down in Mexico. Had the OD of the element flange hole welded plus the ID of the hole for good measure. That worked fine then I foam insulated it and reinstalled and found another leak at the cold water inlet. I’m having all the pipes welded now.
I also had a problem with elements failing from calcifying. All the minerals in the water where we were in Mexico caused a layer of scale to form on the element leading severe overheating of the element (not the water). I now turn the heater on and off as needed. A pain but I’m on my last stock element and I want it to last. I have used h/w store elements in the past with no problems.
Debbie on March 30th, 2011 at 8:59 pm #
Thanks John for leaving your advice! Given all the cold and rain we’re having I can really say…I wish I were in Mexico too!
Nice to know you’re making the store element work and last! Having hot water aboard is really living.
Russell Poster on April 23rd, 2011 at 8:48 am #
I just bought a boat with a T10e Atlantic marine water heater. 2 questions -does anyone now how to take it apart -I dont see any screws or panel like debbie shows in her pictures. and also has anyone found the element for this model or is it the same as the t12e thanks Russell
Debbie on April 23rd, 2011 at 9:47 pm #
Can’t help with taking it apart, sorry. If your water heater isn’t working, once you get it apart and of course check to see if you can figure out what the problem is, and it is the element; you can just take it with you to your local home plumbing store and they should be able to match it pretty close. Knock wood…ours is still working, hope it continues! Good luck on yours. Anyone help with ideas on taking Russell’s unit apart?
Russell on April 24th, 2011 at 9:59 am #
Thanks Debbi- I will be taking another look during the week .. but dont think it has a panel like yours ..that would be too easy.. Let u know
Debbie on April 26th, 2011 at 10:48 pm #
Keep us posted Russell!
Dennis Clarke on April 27th, 2011 at 9:30 pm #
I just purchased a replacement thermostat from Holland Marine Products for my T series hot water tank.
2., There is a white, paste bewteen the old thermostat and teh tank, What is it? and do I need to put more on?
Thanks for your help
Russell on April 28th, 2011 at 5:57 am #
I did have that panel on mine -opened it and got the replacement Element from Grainger .all is right now .. Happy happy. But I would like to know the part # for the T stat from holland .. will buy one just in case that goes ..it is looking rather old–Thanks
Dennis Clarke on April 28th, 2011 at 12:12 pm #
Russell on April 28th, 2011 at 12:58 pm #
Dennis-Thanks for info on T-Stat–the wiring is simple–you should have a total of 4 wires–one wire goes from the top terminal of T-stat to the bottom screw on element-that is a seperate wire-then you should have a ground wire which will attach to one of the bolts on element with a connector then tighten nut on bolt-then you should have a black wire which will go to top screw on element-then the white should go to bottom terminal of T-stat- hope that helps and hope I did not confuse you -let us know how u did
Debbie on April 28th, 2011 at 11:14 pm #
Wow, you guys really rock!
Dennis Clarke on April 29th, 2011 at 10:07 pm #
I installed the new thermostat today. One of the few boat jobs I’ve done lately that went well. I’m worried something will come back and bite me in the A$$ later. This is not normal.
Debbie on May 2nd, 2011 at 2:08 pm #
Hurrrayyyy for you! Given today’s problems it’s nice to be able to fix something for just a buck or two. Congrats!
jjfarber on April 16th, 2012 at 9:31 am #
I’m looking for the Atlantic Marine products installation instructions (T10E): can the unit’s mounting bracket be moved so that the unit can be mounted on against a bulkhead? Does anyone have the product manual?
Debbie on April 17th, 2012 at 9:22 pm #
How about it? Anyone have the installation instructions? I’ll check next trip to the boat but I don’t think we do.
Manuel Estela on April 19th, 2012 at 5:47 pm #
Does anyone knows were i can buy a T6E Water Heater. I can not find a web site for Atlantic Marine Products. My water heater rusted and i need a new water heater. I would like to use the same model so it fits in the same place.
Debbie on April 26th, 2012 at 4:45 pm #
You might try www.chromalox.com or you could try Holland Marine. Best of luck!
Robert on May 13th, 2012 at 5:35 am #
Holland Marine has original Atlantic Marine Stainless advertised in their catalogue for $470CDN.
Has anyone found a source of thermostats and part #?
Debbie. Thank you so much for this valuable posting.
Debbie on May 13th, 2012 at 9:47 pm #
You’re welcome! Seems like spring is when this post is most helpful. Thanks for the information about Holland Marine.
Jeremy on June 11th, 2013 at 8:09 am #
I’m having a real problem trying to find a replacement element for my Atlantic Marine model T6E 120volt/1250 watt.
Makes it harder being in Fremantle, Australia, as everything here is 240volt,
Any advise gratefully received,
Debbie on June 11th, 2013 at 9:29 pm #
What about Amazon dot com? Could it be shipped to you? Don’t know how cost effective that would be…just sayin’
Debbie on June 11th, 2013 at 9:30 pm #
For anyone interested, we had to replace the element this spring 2013. So we got about 5 years off the first one.
Jim on July 7th, 2013 at 8:22 am #
I just ordered the McMaster-Carr element for my heater. I found this site while trying to find Atlantic Marine repair parts and I am ever grateful. One question though, has anyone considered using the original brass plate on the new element? Without having the two in hand, I’m not even sure if it is even possible to make the swap but at least it’s a thought.
Debbie on July 8th, 2013 at 7:01 am #
Joann Fahy on September 26th, 2013 at 2:47 pm #
Debbie on September 29th, 2013 at 9:14 am #
Do you have pressured water? When we want to start using the water heater we just turn on the water pump and run the water until the water runs clear. Then we flip the breaker to on and just wait for the water heater to work. The water comes from our fresh water holding tank. The fill cap for ours is in the anchor locker on the bow. Hope that helps!
GG on October 21st, 2014 at 11:39 am #
I have a 6gal Atlantic Marine T6E 110v. Heater element was recently replaced. I have a parts number for an element which can be bought on Amazon.com
Searching for a parts number for a possible thermostat.
My understanding is that you can select a heating element similar in volts and wattage to original element and as long as it fits in the tank and seals, its good to go.
Likewise, any thermostat for said watts and volts, that makes contact with tank and mounts similar will work. In which case an Atwood or other might work?
The water tank is very simple & bullet proof. The heating element heats, and the thermostat is a switch that turns and on and off based on tank temp. The thermostat doesn’t go inside the tank, but mearly touches it.
If you have a a thermostat replacement please advise.
BTW Holland Marine only has 220v thermostats. No 110v. Poor communication, so gave up on them
GG on November 3rd, 2014 at 4:56 pm #
Parts as of 11/03/14 for 110v Atlantic MARINE Water Heater T6
Thermostat from Holland Marine
Rick W on June 4th, 2015 at 8:13 am #
What a great thread! Hope it’s still active.
My 1986 Bayfield 29 has an Atlantic Marine water heater, but I don’t see any numbers on it like the folks on this thread are referencing.
It’s a 120V unit, 6 gal., 9Amp.
The unit still works like it’s supposed to, though I wish I could turn the temp’ down! It’s dangerously hot! Anyway, the day will come that I need an element & gasket or t-stat.
Can anyone tell me if those parts are common to their heaters, even though the model #’s don’t match?
Was the one writer able to epoxy the tank leak?
For what it’s worth, if galvanic reaction is the issue, and that comes from dissimilar metals, I would think the brass base would corrode as well as the steel (or at least somewhat).
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